It is Saturday morning. The sun is playing hide and seek with clouds, light breeze is blowing and it’s the perfect time for me to explore ’Dilli Haat’ (Delhi’s art & craft and cultural Bazaar), yet again. I just do not seem to get enough of this place. My brain produces lots of soothing hormones upon seeing the vibrant colours of this place and I just love this feeling.
Dilli Haat is Delhi’s first permanent centre for the display of India’s endless treasure of art, craft, music & cuisine. Mobbed by tourists from not only India but across the world; Dilli Haat was established in 1994. Right from the state of ‘Jammu & Kashmir’ to ‘Kerala’ and from ‘Gujarat’ to ‘Assam’, Dilli Haat showcases the art, culture, music & cuisine of each and every state of India.
The best way to reach Dilli Haat if you do not have a personal vehicle is by ‘The Delhi Metro’. Nearest stations are ‘INA’ and ‘AIIMS’. Delhi transport bus network is very extensive but I suggest taking metro. Why to take a bus when there are faster and more comfortable means of transport available. Taxis are available but of course are on the expensive side.
The first sight of Dilli Haat today leaves me transfixed by the colourful dresses of the women from ‘Jodhpur’ (Rajasthan) sitting outside Dilli Haat selling bangles and other makeup. With a little hesitation I strike a conversation with one of the women. Thank God she is friendly. Probably she is used to speaking to tourists and I was making a big deal inside my own damn head. She is happy to have a photograph clicked and tell me a little about her home town and nearby villages which are mainly inhabited by the ‘Marwaris’ (one of the most common communities in Rajasthan). I promise to gift her copy of this photograph once it’s developed which she wants to flaunt to her family back home.
There is an entry ticket which is quite cheap looking at the plethora of things available inside. I am frisked at the entrance, which irritates me quite a bit even though I am aware it is for my own safety. I quickly forget my irritation the moment I cross the barrier and into the compound of Dilli Haat.
Oh wow, what’s that, I exclaim when I see this strange looking colourful box on wheels? I can hear loud music coming out of the box and one person operating a level over it. Two tourists, probably Spanish are peeping inside the box like school kids.
This strange instrument turns out to be a ‘Bioscope’ (the first cinema system of India). Music is playing and the operator is manually changing the sequence of photographs. Two people at a time can watch the movie. Will I get to see this anywhere else in Delhi? Not a chance. This technology became out-dated before I was born. I have only heard about it in tales from my mother and here I am looking at it. I stand there for a while listening to the 80s music blaring out of this primitive machine before moving the next most eye catching stall.
There are no bounds to a man’s imagination provided it is let free. I have had coconut a million times but never thought that the outer shell could be converted into a piece of art. A stall from the city of ‘Pondicherry’ is showcasing some unbelievable creativity out of coconut shells.
There are bangles and other jewellery made out of coconut shells. I stop here for a full 10 minutes as I just do not want to take my eyes off these pieces of art. My mind races thinking about that person who would have thought of this brilliant idea.
There are numerous stalls around selling very fine paintings with some very interesting geometrical patterns. I have such paintings at home but I never paid any attention to them or tried to find out what this type of art is called. But here in Dilli Haat everything seems to attract me as if I am seeing it for the first time. I approach one of the stalls and gaze at the endless designs available in these paintings which I later find out are called ‘Madhubani Paintings’ or ‘Mithila Paintings’ from the state of ‘Bihar’.
The seller is kind enough to tell me some stories about the origin of this art which was originally done on the mud walls and floors of huts of the people from the town of Madhubani centuries ago. What’s interesting is that the colours are all derived out of plants, lampblack & ochre. These paintings mostly depict men and their association with nature. Natural objects like the sun, the moon, and religious plants are widely painted. Scenes from royal courts and weddings are a commonplace. Generally no space is left vacant. Objects depicted on the walls of ‘Kohabar Ghar’ (where newlywed couple see each other on the first night) are symbols of sexual pleasure and procreation. These paintings are, in fact, simplistic manifestation of the philosophical heights achieved by Indian civilization for the universal power of love, longing and peace.
Up ahead, there is a camp set up especially by the state of ’West Bengal’. Right at the entrance I stop to look at the cute figurines of children, women, saints and tribal people. The owner of the stall ‘Mr. Pranab Biswas’, in his tone as sweet as ‘Mishti Doi’ (Sweet Curd – Speciality of West Bengal) tells me that these figures are all made of Clay and were originally hand crafted by tribes of Bengal before being given proper recognition in a bigger market.
I have heard craftsmen induce life in their work. With their work they make the audience smile, they make them cry. I am having one such experience on looking at these two clay sculptures of a laughing and a sleeping kid. I can’t resist taking a close up snap to share my source of happiness with you.
Similar to the Madhubani paintings in terms of their fine work are the ‘Patachitra Paintings’ from the state of ‘Orissa’ (Odisha). ‘Pata’ literally means cloth and ‘chitra’ means picture in Sanskrit. These paintings are originally dedicated to the worship of ’Lord Jagannath’. These paintings are very rare as the ‘Chitrakars’ (artists) are mainly found in the ‘Puri’ region of Orissa.
The owner of the stall explains to me that ‘Hindu’ mythological themes, and specifically images of ‘Lord Jagannath’, ‘Balabhadra’, and ‘Subhadra’ are prominently found in this art form, as also are scenes from the epics, pictures of fables, myths and folk-tales, royal processions, court ladies, and animals and birds. The symbols used for gods are very realistic in terms of form, shape, and accessories, and it is easy to observe the continuity and similarity in the images depicted in the various Patachitras. The borders vary from thick lines to geometrical patterns and floral depictions with intricate detailing.
I wonder, would I have lived all my life unaware of the rich art of India hadn’t it been for the place like Dilli Haat? The answer is certainly ‘Yes’. The Patachitra art at this stall isn’t only limited to paintings on cloth but can also be seen on vases and wall hangings made of handmade paper.
I can’t help myself from buying two small paintings, one for my home and another for my office desk. The paintings aren’t very expensive considering the effort and love of the artist that has gone behind making them.
The spectacle of Indian culture can never be complete without the traditional Indian Bangles. Of all the times I have visited Dilli Haat, bangles have always mesmerised me. There are bangles made of glass, bronze, wood, Lac (lead), gold and silver. In Hindu culture bangles are considered auspicious for married women and they are expected to wear them at all times. Bangles in Indian culture are related to the safety of one’s husband. Unexpected breakage of bangles is considered inauspicious for the safety of a woman’s husband. Although with the rapid modernization in metropolitan cities people are beginning to believe less in these traditions but step outside of metros and these beliefs are very deep rooted. There must be some rational behind the origin of these beliefs which the newer generation in metros is oblivious of.
Another tale says that women wear as many close fitting bangles as they can on their wedding. It is then when the couples’ honeymoon starts. It ends when the last bangle breaks. I come across a shop selling stone bangles along with other artefacts like tea set, ear rings and slingshots. All are made of Serpentine Stone. Bangles made of stone? I have never heard of it before. But it is a reality and a speciality of the state of ‘Manipur’, India.
I can also see lots of stalls depicting Rajasthan’s art but one definitely stands apart from the others. I see two women clad in traditional ‘Marwari’ attire selling the goods. The women usually dress up in a ‘Saree’ or a ‘Ghagra’. Coloured stones, tinsels and silk threads are used to create beautiful floral patterns to enhance the rich look of Saree. The bulky jewellery, which is very unique; forms an essential part of a woman’s ensemble. Some tribes use brass jewellery which although isn’t made of precious metals like gold and silver, is very beautiful. The affluent families of course prefer jewellery made of gold and silver. ‘Lac’ (lead) jewellery is also widely worn by women and even children.
I just stand there staring at rows of ‘Kathputli’ cloth puppets displayed all across the shop. These puppets are usually made of very vibrant colours and are used by people to decorate their houses as well as by children as toys.
I observe the minute details of this art form, which is simple yet so incredibly beautiful. The front table at the shop which is made of stone is covered with small figurines mounted on horses and elephants probably depicting a scene from an army getting ready for war.
Outside the shop I find these 3 heads of Buddha made of wood. The pieces are not very high quality as the wood is rough and chipped at places but I like the carving and the peaceful aura that such an artefact would bring if placed in my home. Probably the chipped wood texture is given on purpose.
A few paces ahead is a shop selling ceramic and glass material, mostly lamps which are extremely beautiful. They remind me of the Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar on which I was recently doing some research. The small drawers which are made of ceramic and are hand painted can not only be used to keep small items like jewellery but can also be put up for show. The coloured glass lamps with metal bases would look so romantic if lit and hung in ones garden at night.
Standing here I am thinking that there is no limit to the creativity and imagination of a human mind. It is us who define limits to the gift that we have. In the same shop I see some unusual wind chimes made of wood, metal and even handmade paper.
Shapes of stars, hearts, half-moon all can be found in their beautiful forms in these wind chimes. I feel like buying all of them and putting them up in my house but then I am reminded of my unrealistic desire. This reminds me that Dilli Haat is one place where heavy bargaining works. The vendors usually quote inflated prices being aware that the customer will bargain. So if I do not bargain it’s a good day for the vendor.
The same shop is selling some very elegant carved wooden vases and crockery. The collection of innovative wooden crockery right from tea set to dinner set to a fruit basket is worth checking out and even buying. The vases range from small ones ideal to be kept in a drawing room to large one suitable for a huge villa.
Night has fallen and it has started to drizzle. Open air vendors and tourists are running around desperate to find shelter. I, on the other hand cover my camera with my hands and choose to walk in the drizzle. It’s not heavy rain after all. And what’s the harm in re-living my childhood for few moments. My nose catches the fragrance of incense sticks in the surroundings, especially lemon grass. I stand at one place for quite a long time experiencing the drizzle and the fragrance when my state of meditation is broken by clinging of wind chimes which are being sold by another open air vendor. The only 100W light bulb is throwing its light on these bell shaped wind chimes made of brass emitting a golden glow and some mystic shadows.
Rain has stopped and now a cool breeze is blowing through my hair in the backdrop of distant music being played by a vendor on an ‘Ektar’. Ektar is an Indian musical instrument somewhat held and played like a violin but it contains only one string and is much smaller in size.
I see another shop selling very unusual but very beautiful butterflies and birds made of baked mud. They are available in all shapes and sizes and are very cheap as well. I find it another very simple yet beautiful form of art.
I retire for the day at an in-house shop selling dishes made of organic ingredients and authentic spices. The food turns out to be average but the aura of the seating area is awesome.
In terms of the cuisine Dilli Haat does not disappoint you no matter which one you want to try on. From East Indian food comprising of shrimps, prawns & chicken cooked in their own unique manner to Bengali food. Food from the state of Gujarat always has a hint of sweet in every dish. Dishes from Rajasthan, Kashmir, Bihar along with that of other states bring along their own uniqueness. No two cuisines are the same and if you are having Indian food for the first time you may want to keep your stomach empty a day in advance because there is so much to taste. You may also find your taste buds surprised by some totally new flavours never experienced before.
As a tourist one has to have at least half a day to completely absorb all the things that this place has to offer. If you are from a different culture I promise you will have an eye full of things to look around for. If you are lucky you may also catch some traditional open air regional dance shows or poetry performances by local state artists in Dilli Haat’s amphitheatre.
Night fall in Dilli Haat is something to just enjoy. I have ensured that I am in no hurry. I have nowhere to go, nowhere to reach. I just stroll around and sit to enjoy the lighting and people moving around. There aren’t vendors selling in their loud voices like those in traditional bazaars. There is low murmur of tourists with occasional squeals of children, distant sound of the ’Ektar’, fragrance of some local cuisine and in between all of these the Sound of Silence.
great report
Thanks Nitika. Hope you will come back for more articles in future 🙂