Last month I planned to travel to Bengal in search of some hidden villages around Darjeeling, but half way in the train I got news that the mountains of northern Bengal are closed indefinitely for visitors. I called up my host who suggested another place called Chalsa where I could travel to. I haven’t done […]

Two things special about Darjeeling are the clouds that float into your room through the windows and the hospitality of its people. I purposefully avoided big restaurants and chose to explore the smaller more cozy ones. Here is what I recommend – 1. Sonam’s Kitchen – This small but neat restaurant is on Zakir Hussain road. There are few benches to sit so you will have to share the space with other travelers. That’s what makes this place so unique. You will eventually end up having conversation with someone. Food: I would not have breakfast anywhere else in Darjeeling but Sonam’s Kitchen. Try number (d) on the menu – Hash brownies, Toasts, Half fried eggs, slices of cheese & tomatoes. Make it go with Darjeeling ginger tea. There is a shelf from where you can pick up any book and read. You can even buy one. They have a dog named ‘Lola’. She may just walk up to you and rest its head on your leg while you eat. Sonam’s Kitchen, Darjeeling 2. Kalden Cafe – It is run by an old Tibetan couple who will […]