Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang – Chiang Mai
Part 2: Pai – Mae Hong Son
Early next morning I plan to check out ‘Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu ‘, the hill top buddhist temple of Mae Hong Son overlooking the whole town. I can go all the way to the top by my bike but i choose to take the 300+ stairs. The entrance is very beautiful and glows golden in the morning sun with its two guardian lions.
The air is very clean but the heat takes its toll on me. As i am climbing the stairs i remember what i read in a book. All the faiths including Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism originated in India. One thing common among its temples is that, traditionally, they were built on mountain tops ensuring that it takes something on the part of the visitor to reach it. There are couple of reasons why the temples are made on mountain tops or other places that are difficult to reach.
1. Every person, no matter in which part of the town should be able to see the temple and get a sense of having a direct connection with a higher power at all times
2. The sound of temple’s bells that are rung during morning and evening prayers reach all parts of the town at once and a single frequency that resonates through everyones’ senses brings them in sync with each other
3. Have you ever worked really hard to get something in your life? How is the feeling once you get it? It holds a lot of value for you as compared to something that you got without any effort. The same holds true and explains why the approach to all the temples is difficult. All the effort that a person puts in to reach the temple clears his mind off any ill thoughts and prepares him for the pilgrimage.
Once i cross over the last step, it is definitely worth it. The sun is till not completely up and cool morning breeze is blowing. The whole space is filled with the aroma of incense sticks.
I see lots of women going around the stupa with small pots of flowers and incense sticks in their hands. They finally lay them down in front of the Buddha statue.
Many places that I am visiting may appear the same but each one is leaving me with a distinct experience. I see some buddhist monks having morning tea and reading newspaper. I have read that monks are traditionally devoted to the service of God and alienate themselves from the materialistic world but these seemed to be pretty modern. They have cell phones, iPods and are drinking tea in a pretty cool cafe.
There is a small market selling local souvenirs and handicrafts at the back of this temple. I don’t want to buy anything but a visit is definitely worth it. 100 mtrs. from this souvenir market is the ‘Before Sunset Coffee Shop‘ with its seating area overlooking the valley and mountains beyond. I wish i could find a vacant table to just experience having a cappuccino at the edge of a valley but they are already taken and i have to satisfy myself with a photograph.
This quick visit has totally charged me up. By the time I climb down the stairs sweat is oozing out of me like tap water. If i visit this place everyday I am sure I won’t need to go to gym. I grab a tall glass of ice cold Latte from 7Eleven, drink it down slowly on a very scenic road side before heading off to Mae Sariang.
Day 3: Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang (164 km)
The drive to Mae Sariang is even easier and even though I take a 30 minute break at ‘Khun Yuam‘ to have lunch, I still reach Mae Sariang by 2:30 in the afternoon. The town of Mae Sariang is a shock to me. It is a total dissapointment and I wished I had stayed for a day more in Pai rather than wasting a night here. I can’t find any place to eat properly. The only roadside shop selling food is cooking all sorts of ugly looking meat which will make me puke if I even smell it.
At this point i have to make a decision whether to stay here and do practically nothing till night or dare to drive additional 190 km to Chiang Mai. Better senses prevail and I decide to give Mae Sariang a skip. I still have four more hours before night falls and the road is going to get easier to drive by each passing mile. The road from ‘Mae Sariang’ to ‘Hot’ is the last patch which is anywhere near to be mountainous. From ‘Hot’ till ‘Chiang Mai’ the terrain is absolutely plain. Between ‘Hot’ and ‘Chom Thong’ the highway is good but due to construction and my tinted helmet visor I can’t see anything at all and dust is blowing straight in to my eyes.
I take a short break at ‘Chom Thong’ to wash up my face. There isn’t much to see now in terms of natural beauty and I am already missing Pai. Now i am only looking forward to reaching Chiang Mai and getting a Thai massage to re-position my displaced bone joints.
It takes me another three hours to reach Chiang Mai. My Mae Hong Son drive ends with a very refreshing Thai massage, a tall glass of beer on the roof top of my hostel and a walk by the Chiang Mai river. My last three days have been the most adventurous of my life and I would love to drive around the loop once again but this time I will keep more days to spend in Pai.
These three days have definitely made me a better man. I have seen local tribes, eaten local food, lived in villages, driven through some tough terrain, met some wonderful people and seen smiling faces in the midst of a lifestyle that seems tough but is in fact very beautiful and simple. No longer do i have any compaints or regrets. There are only smiles and gratitude for all that I have.
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Related Articles:
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Pai
Day 2: Pai to Mae Hong Son
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